Moles tunnel a few inches under the surface hunting grubs and earthworms, leaving raised ridges and soil mounds across the yard. We trap along the active runs and take down the food source so the tunneling stops.
Moles are solitary and low in number, so the whole job turns on finding the active runs and working them, not on scattering bait across the yard.
Walk the lawn to separate the active surface runs from the abandoned ones, and locate the deep travel tunnels feeding them.
Set traps along the runs the mole is using now. Trapping is the method that reliably removes moles, so the yard stops moving.
Address the grub and insect load the moles are feeding on, then monitor for fresh ridges so a new mole does not move into the old runs.
Moles do not eat your grass or plants. They are insect eaters, and the damage comes from the tunneling itself: raised ridges, mounds, and roots lifted away from the soil. Left alone, the runs keep spreading across the lawn.
This is part of our full wildlife removal and exclusion program. Grub pressure ties into lawn and yard care, and related digging animals are covered under groundhog control.
No. Moles eat grubs, earthworms, and insects, not roots or bulbs. The damage you see is the tunneling. If plants are being chewed underground, that points to voles, which we handle differently.
Moles feed on live insects, so poison baits made for rodents rarely work on them, and repellents tend to move the tunnels a few feet rather than end them. Trapping the active runs is the method that removes the animal.
Cutting the grub load helps make the yard less attractive over time, but a mole already in the lawn also eats earthworms, so grub treatment on its own does not clear an active mole. We pair it with trapping.
One yard usually holds only a mole or two, but empty runs can draw a new one in. We monitor after removal for fresh ridges so a repeat is caught early.
One inspection finds the active runs, reads the grub pressure, and sets the trapping plan to stop the tunneling.
